Plant-Derived vs Human and Stem-Cell Exosomes: What the Difference Means for UK Skincare

By Dr Ivona Igerc, GDC-registered doctor and aesthetic practitioner, founder of Dr Ivy London. Published: 1 August 2026.

Exosomes aren't stem cells: what they actually are

The phrase "stem-cell exosomes" causes a common mix-up worth clearing up first: exosomes are not stem cells. In mammalian biology, an exosome is a tiny, naturally occurring vesicle, roughly 30 to 150 nanometres across, that a cell releases as a way of passing signals and material to other cells. Almost every type of mammalian cell releases them. Inside, an exosome carries a small cargo of proteins, lipids, and genetic material (RNA) from the cell that made it (Wang, Tsai and Lee, Clinical and Translational Science, 2024).

Plant cells release comparable vesicles, but researchers are more cautious about calling them exosomes outright, and the caution turns out to be warranted: a 2025 review in the Journal of Nanobiotechnology found these plant vesicles run larger and considerably more heterogeneous than their mammalian counterparts, averaging roughly 50 to 500 nanometres depending on the plant source and isolation method, against the roughly 30 to 150 nanometre range typical of animal-derived exosomes (Liu et al., Journal of Nanobiotechnology, 2025). They are also identified differently in the lab: researchers look to potential plant-associated markers such as HSP70 and GAPDH, noting that standardised criteria are still lacking, rather than the CD63 and Tsg101 markers used to confirm a mammalian exosome, because the two aren't interchangeable evidence of the same thing (Liu et al., 2025).

A "stem-cell exosome" is simply a vesicle released by a stem cell, usually a mesenchymal stem cell (MSC) taken from human tissue such as bone marrow, umbilical cord, or fat. The intended isolated material is the vesicles rather than the stem cells themselves; actual composition and purity depend on manufacturing and characterisation. A 2024 regulatory-science review highlights that exosome research and manufacturing standards continue to evolve, with ongoing work focused on improving consistency, characterisation and quality across the field, and points to this as one factor in why official approval for injected exosome products has lagged worldwide (Wang, Tsai and Lee, Clinical and Translational Science, 2024). The same principle applies on the plant side: the ingredient used in a plant-derived serum is not whole plant tissue. It is an extract from a source such as Centella Asiatica, and its actual composition and purity likewise depend on how it was isolated and characterised, not assumed from the name on the label.

A note on terminology: “plant-derived exosomes” is the commonly used commercial term across the skincare industry, including in product descriptions and consumer-facing materials. In scientific literature, researchers often use terms such as “plant extracellular vesicles” or “plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles” (PENs) to describe these naturally occurring plant-derived structures, reflecting the ongoing development of terminology and characterisation methods in this emerging field. Throughout this article, we use “PENs” or “plant extracellular vesicles” when discussing the scientific literature, and “plant-derived exosomes” when referring to the broader skincare product category.

That is where the similarity in name ends. The rest of this article looks at how each is actually made, what the evidence base for each looks like, and what is worth asking a brand about either one before you buy.

Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles: what they are and how they're used

Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles (PENs) are isolated from plant material using techniques such as centrifugation and filtration, sometimes followed by ultracentrifugation, the same underlying principle used to isolate mammalian exosomes, applied to a different starting material, and, per the Liu review, producing a wider and more variable size range as a result. Centella Asiatica, a herb long used in traditional topical preparations and commonly known as gotu kola, is one plant source examined in preclinical skincare research (Chang et al., International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2025).

A 2025 study in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences isolated extracellular vesicles from Centella asiatica tissue culture by centrifugation and filtration, and measured a mean particle size of around 150 nanometres by nanoparticle tracking analysis, with electron microscopy showing individual vesicles of roughly 100 to 150 nanometres, a lipid bilayer structure, and sitting at the smaller end of the wider size range PENs cover as a class. The same study measured a set of laboratory endpoints, in human skin cells and in a UV-damaged mouse model, including markers linked to pigmentation and to inflammation (Chang et al., International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2025). A separate 2025 review in the Journal of Nanobiotechnology surveyed PENs more broadly: compared with animal-derived exosomes, which tend to run smaller and carry a fairly consistent cargo of membrane and nucleic-acid components, PENs are described as more heterogeneous in origin, size, and composition, encompassing plant-specific bioactive compounds alongside the same broad categories of protein, lipid, and RNA cargo (Liu et al., Journal of Nanobiotechnology, 2025).

Two things matter about that evidence base. First, these are preclinical, ingredient-level laboratory endpoints, cell assays and an animal model, not clinical-trial data on any finished serum, Dr Ivy London's included. A measurement made on isolated vesicles in a dish or in mice does not substantiate a claim about what any formulated, finished cosmetic does on human skin over weeks of use; that distinction holds throughout this article. Second, because PENs are heterogeneous by nature, size and composition vary by plant source, growing conditions, and isolation method, a supplier's own characterisation data (particle size, concentration, and identity markers, ideally by nanoparticle tracking analysis or a comparable method) matters more here than it would for a well-standardised ingredient. A brand that can show that data for its specific ingredient is making a more checkable claim than one that only prints "plant-derived exosomes" on the label.

Human and stem-cell-derived exosomes: what they are and how they're used

Human-derived exosomes are isolated from human cells, most often mesenchymal stem cells sourced from donated tissue such as bone marrow, adipose (fat) tissue, or umbilical cord. Researchers are studying them for a range of potential therapeutic uses, and academic regulatory analysis treats exosome products intended to modify a physiological function as increasingly evaluated against biologic and advanced-therapy medicine frameworks (Wang, Tsai and Lee, Clinical and Translational Science, 2024).

Some UK clinics offer human and stem-cell-derived exosomes as an injectable or microneedled treatment, a different route into the body from a topical serum; the two are worth keeping distinct, since not every clinic offering microneedling is also injecting the material. Save Face, the UK aesthetic-practitioner accreditation body, states that "human-derived exosomes are not approved for cosmetic use in the UK or EU, and injectable exosome therapies have no UK marketing authorisation," and that the MHRA "considers injected exosomes to be medicinal products" (Save Face, "Exosome Therapy in the UK: A Patient Safety Warning on the New Injectables", accessed 1 August 2026).

Whether that makes injectable exosome treatments unsafe, and what a reader should ask a practitioner before booking one, is a safety and regulation question in its own right, distinct from where the material was sourced, and worth its own dedicated treatment rather than a paragraph here. The short version for this article: Save Face reports that no human or stem-cell-derived exosome product currently holds UK marketing authorisation for injectable or aesthetic use, a position unchanged as of August 2026, when the sources for this article were last checked.

Plant-derived vs human and stem-cell exosomes: the comparison

The table below compares how each source group is typically prepared and used, and what the evidence base looks like for each. It is not an exhaustive list of every possible source, animal-derived exosomes exist too, and it is not a ruling on legal status.

Sources: Chang et al., International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2025; Liu et al., Journal of Nanobiotechnology, 2025; Wang, Tsai and Lee, Clinical and Translational Science, 2024; Save Face, "Exosome Therapy in the UK: A Patient Safety Warning on the New Injectables" (accessed 1 August 2026). Full bibliography with links below.

Why Dr Ivy London formulates with plant-derived exosomes

Dr Ivy London's Regenerative Exosome Serum is formulated with plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles from Centella Asiatica. That is a sourcing decision, not a superiority claim: plant-derived exosomes are not being presented here as scientifically better than human or stem-cell-derived ones, and this serum is not positioned as an alternative to an injectable procedure. It is a different product, in a different category, for a different use.

The honest reason for the choice is straightforward. A topical, plant-derived exosome serum is formulated and positioned as a cosmetic: appearance claims only, used at home, no clinic visit required. A human or stem-cell-derived exosome product, injected, is a different kind of product altogether, offered in a clinical setting and, per Save Face, without a UK product currently holding marketing authorisation for that use. Choosing plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles for a cosmetic serum reflects the intended use of the product: a topical, at-home skincare formulation focused on supporting the appearance of healthier-looking skin. It is a considered ingredient choice rather than a comparison of one source being universally superior to another. Read more about the ingredient on the exosomes page and the science behind the formulation on the science page, and about Dr Ivona Igerc's background on the about page.

What this means if you're choosing exosome skincare

If you're comparing options, the useful question isn't "which type of exosome is better," because that isn't a like-for-like comparison. The useful questions are: what are you trying to achieve, appearance-level skincare or a clinical procedure; what route are you comfortable with, topical or injected; and does the brand give a clear, checkable answer about where its exosomes come from, how they were isolated, and what evidence exists for the finished product, not just the raw ingredient.

A topical serum, however well formulated, works at the level of the skin's surface; it is formulated and positioned as a cosmetic, not a clinical treatment. It is not positioned as, and should not be marketed as, a substitute for a clinical procedure carried out by a practitioner. Wanting an in-clinic treatment is a separate conversation with a qualified practitioner about a separate category of product, with its own evidence base to check before booking.

A few concrete things worth asking a brand, or checking on a product page, before buying either kind of product:

• Which species or tissue the exosomes (or exosome-like vesicles) actually came from, named specifically, not just "plant-derived" or "human-derived."
• How they were isolated and characterised, for example ultracentrifugation, filtration, or another method, and whether the supplier publishes particle-size or identity-marker data rather than just a name.
• Whether a claim on the label is about appearance (a cosmetic-style claim) or about treating a condition (a medicinal-style claim); the second, on a topical product, is worth questioning regardless of source.
• For an in-clinic offer: whether the practitioner is independently accredited, Save Face maintains a public register of practitioners it has assessed, and whether they can describe the product's regulatory status themselves rather than deflecting the question.

For a full explainer of how exosomes work in skincare generally, see our guide, What Is Exosome Skincare? A Doctor's Guide.

Frequently asked questions

Are exosomes the same as stem cells? No. Exosomes are tiny vesicles that cells release, not the cells themselves. A "stem-cell exosome" is a vesicle shed by a stem cell, not a stem cell in the product. Plant cells release comparable vesicles, more cautiously called plant extracellular vesicles or plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles (PENs); "plant-derived exosomes" is the commercial shorthand for the same category.

Are plant-derived exosomes safer or more effective than human-derived exosomes? Neither claim is established. They come from different sources, are isolated and characterised differently, and are used in different ways: plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles turn up mostly in topical cosmetics with appearance-level claims, while human and stem-cell-derived exosomes are being researched for potential therapeutic uses and, where offered in UK clinics, are delivered by injection or microneedling. Comparing them head-to-head as "better" or "worse" isn't a like-for-like comparison; they are different ingredients used for different purposes.

Is it legal to buy exosome skincare in the UK? Save Face, the UK aesthetic-practitioner accreditation body, reports that plant-derived and other non-human exosome products can be sold in the UK as cosmetics provided they comply with cosmetic product regulations, including safety assessment and correct labelling, and make appearance-level claims only. The same source reports that human-derived exosomes are not approved for cosmetic use in the UK or EU, and that injectable exosome therapies have no UK marketing authorisation. The MHRA's own guidance, which does not name exosomes specifically, defines a medicinal product as one "presented as having properties of preventing or treating disease" or intended to be administered "with a view to restoring, correcting or modifying a physiological function by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action" (MHRA, "Borderline products: how to tell if your product is a medicine").

Why does Dr Ivy London use plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles instead of human-derived exosomes? Dr Ivy London chose plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles, sourced from Centella Asiatica, because they align with the purpose of the Regenerative Exosome Serum: a topical, at-home cosmetic formulation designed to support healthier-looking skin. Plant-derived ingredients offer a well-established approach within cosmetic skincare, and the serum is formulated according to cosmetic safety standards for topical use. This is a considered sourcing decision based on the intended use of the product (a premium skincare serum for daily application), rather than a comparison between different exosome categories used in entirely different settings. What is Centella Asiatica and why is it used for exosome-like nanovesicles? Centella Asiatica, also known as gotu kola, is a herb with a long history in topical preparations. It is one plant source examined in preclinical skincare research on exosome-like nanovesicles. Laboratory and animal studies have measured antioxidant- and inflammation-related endpoints in the vesicles isolated from it, including a mean particle size of around 150 nanometres reported in one 2025 study; those are preclinical, ingredient-level findings and do not, on their own, substantiate a claim about any finished cosmetic.

Can I get injectable exosome treatments in the UK? Some UK clinics offer injectable or microneedled exosome treatments. Save Face reports that no such product currently holds MHRA marketing authorisation. What to check before booking one is a safety and regulation question worth its own dedicated guide rather than a short answer here.

Sources

Primary regulatory sources - MHRA, "Borderline products: how to tell if your product is a medicine", gov.uk, last updated 2 July 2026. Accessed 1 August 2026. The Human Medicines Regulations 2012 definition of a medicinal product; the page gives the general test only and does not mention exosomes.

Secondary sources and commentary - Save Face, "Exosome Therapy in the UK: A Patient Safety Warning on the New Injectables", author Ashton Collins. No publish date shown on the page; accessed 1 August 2026. UK aesthetic-practitioner accreditation body's commentary on exosomes' regulatory status by source and route, quoted and attributed as commentary, not as the regulator's own statement.

Research literature (preclinical, ingredient-level) - Chang, T-M. et al., "In Vitro Characterization of Centella asiatica Extracellular Vesicles and Their Skin Repair Effects in a UVB-Irradiated Mouse Model", International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2025. DOI: 10.3390/ijms26188982. - Liu, H. et al., "Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles: a novel therapeutic perspective for skin diseases", Journal of Nanobiotechnology, vol. 23, article 640, 2025. DOI: 10.1186/s12951-025-03715-1. - Wang, C-K., Tsai, T-H. and Lee, C-H., "Regulation of exosomes as biologic medicines: Regulatory challenges faced in exosome development and manufacturing processes", Clinical and Translational Science, 2024.